FOR STARTERS...
You really need at least a couple of nights to properly enjoy Capri and Anacapri - if you come with all the other daytrippers, you'll just be fighting the crowds all day, and before you know it, you're back on the ferry to the mainland.
The most common way of getting here is by boat from Naples, Sorrento and other places along the Amalfi Coast. From the port, there are public buses and a funicular (train) that run up to Capri, but it’s often way overcrowded with long waits invariably in the hot sun.
Instead, I recommend you grab one of the breezy, open-air taxis to whisk you up the hill. The best way to get one: if looking at the port, with the bus and funicular lines to the right, head to the far left and a taxi should appear within minutes, dropping off passengers to take the ferry back to the mainland.
DON’T MISS...
Gozzo Day Trip Around the Island
Capri Boat Tours. Via Largo Fontana, 53 - Capri. +39 0811 972 6872. www.capriboats.com
There are many charter companies offering cruises around the island, but this one was absolutely great. They’ve got a range of boats from the traditional wooden gozzo to some very flash cruisers, but for puttering around the various grottos, the gozzo was perfect. Leaving from Marina Grande at around 9am, you’ll be taken to the Blue Grotto first as the light is ideal at that time, then continue around counterclockwise passing by Lido del Faro, the White and Green grottos, and then zipping through the Faraglioni. You can stop anytime and they’ll book a table for lunch somewhere along the way (La Fontelina is a terrific bet, right across from the Faraglioni).
Lido del Faro
Località Punta Carena - Anacapri. +39 081 837 1798. www.lidofaro.com
This is a great spot to while away the day with a beautifully clear swimming area sheltered by dramatic limestone cliffs, from which the brave (or insane) will jump for your viewing pleasure if you’re lucky. There are plenty of sunbathing areas around with sunloungers for hire, some around the pool, though many people are perfectly happy basking anywhere along the rocky edge. Best of all, the restaurant is very casual but serves top class food looking out over the water. Not to be missed!
Getting a coffee or aperitif at La Piazzetta
THE place to just chill and people-watch, this charming but crowded cobblestoned plaza has several cafes to choose from - a favorite is Bar Tiberio.
Shopping/Cruising Around Capri
Gucci, Prada, Missoni, Lacoste....you name it, they’re all here, and you’d be hard pressed to find a more charming shopping experience as you stroll along the flower-scented cobblestoned streets of central Capri. But don’t forget to check out the island’s speciality handmade leather sandals, which are cobbled-to-order and come in a staggering range of colourful and bejeweled styles.
Taking the chairlift to the top of Monte Solaro
For the most spectacular bird’s eye view of the island, the Faraglioni and the Gulf of Naples, take the single chairlift from Anacapri to the top of Monte Solaro, the highest point of Capri at 589 meters/1930 feet. The ride has you skimming right over the top of people’s backyards, one of which has an interesting collection of garden sculpture.
WHERE TO STAY
Casa Mariantonia
via G. Orlandi, 180. Anacapri. +39 081 8372923. www.casamariantonia.com
One of the few affordable yet still wonderful places to stay on the island, this family-run boutique bed and breakfast is charming and conveniently located for exploring Anacapri by foot or taking the public bus, which stops right nearby, down to Lido del Faro or La Piazzetta. Clean rooms are stocked with lovely Prija toiletries whle breakfast is served on the delightful backyard patio surrounded by citrus trees. The owners will make you feel right at home and can make bookings and recommendations with the best of them. Rates from €160-400/night, including breakfast.
JK Capri
via Prov. Marina Grande, 225. Capri. +39 081 8384001. www.jkcapri.com
This place just oozes cool in a breezy location high above the Marina Grande decked in chic white patio furniture and umbrellas outside and funky royal blue and white decor inside. A nice spot for lunch or a drink if you don’t want to spring for a room. Rates from €700-2700/night, including breakfast and complimentary minibar.
Capri Palace Hotel and Spa
via Capodimonte, 14. Anacapri. +39 081 978 0111. www.capripalace.com
A member of “The Leading Small Hotels in the World”, this exclusive property has won many awards for its spa/health farm and features the only 2-star Michelin restaurant on the island, L’Olivo. Rates from €250-5500/night, including breakfast.
Hotel Quisisana
via Camerelle 2. Capri. +39 081 8370788. www.quisisana.com
Another member of “Leading SMall Hotels” this grand, traditional hotel has been one of Capri’s most exclusive hotels since opening in 1845, hosting almost every celebrity imaginable over the years. Just steps from La Piazzetta, it’s about the best location if shopping and hanging around in Capri is a priority. Rates from €350-920+, including breakfast.
Caesar Augustus
via G.Orlandi, 4. Anacapri. +39 081 8373395. www.caesar-augustus.com
Boasting truly among the most stunning views imaginable, perched on a sheer cliff 1000 meters above the cobalt sea. One of the older high-end properties on the island, the rooms are somewhat old-fashioned but. Rates from €420-1450, including breakfast.
HELPFUL LINKS
The following three sites are all great resources for background info about the island, as well as hotel, restaurant and activity ideas.
Stay & Play: Capri
View back towards Marina Grande, winding our way up the hill to Anacapri.
Taking a dip in one of many gorgeous coves we nipped into while on the gozzo
Rush hour at the Blue Grotto - you'll need a pushy boatsmen to get in before too long
Crowded but beautiful once inside
La Piazzetta at night
The Monte Solaro chairlift
View of the Faraglioni from the top of Monte Solaro
Enjoying the peace and serenity of Anacapri
Lifeguard at Lido del Faro - love this guy
Cliff divers at Lido del Faro