BEST RESTAURANTS AND BARS
Lido Del Faro
Località Punta Carena - Anacapri. +39 081 837 1798. www.lidofaro.com
What a place! We’ve got the Lyles to thank for this top tip, and coming here fresh off the ferry boat was the best way to settle into Capri time. Crystal clear water protected by dramatic limestone cliffs and situated at a remote corner of the island make it a hugely popular spot, but we didn’t feel cramped by the scene at all. The restaurant was simply top-class, with the burrata alici pasta our favourite from the entire trip (and coincidentally, our friends ordered and felt the same).
La Fontelina
via Faraglioni - Faraglioni. +39 081 837 0845
The perfect lunch stopover while circumnavigating the island, it’s right across from the iconic Faraglioni and considered among the best restaurants on Capri for its delicious local fare, especially the seafood, overlooking the water and, if you’re lucky, the famous rocks. Open from mid-April to October, it’s also popular for swimming and sunbathing (no beach though), and can be accessed on foot or by boat.
La Rondinella
via G. Orlandi, 295 - Anacapri. +39 081 837 1223
Conveniently located across the street from Casa Mariantonia (a terrific little B&B), locals (and savvy visitors) come here for the excellent food in an intimate and convivial atmosphere. The best seats are on the small outdoor terrace, surrounded by colourful bougainvillea, and each dish we had was one revelation after another: the most delicately made ravioli caprese bursting with flavour, then the lightest gnocchi imagineable topped with a creamy pesto sauce, followed by the freshest, simply grilled local fish. And it’s ideally located for the perfect digestive stroll through the quiet streets of Anacapri.
Aurora
Via Fuorlovado, 18-22 - Capri. +39 081 837 0181. www.auroracapri.com (Italian only)
One of Capri’s oldest restaurants, this exclusive family-run eatery nestled in the heart of Capri’s stylish shopping area is a popular celebrity, local and tourist haunt. Book or arrive early for one of the tables on the terrace out front, which make for excellent people-watching. Just don’t expect too much with the food, which was fine enough but somewhat bland and nowhere near the same calibre as the restaurants listed above.
da Paulino
via Palazzo a Mare - Località Capri, nr Marina Grande. +39 081 837 6102
It seems every celebrity who has ever visited Capri has come here for a meal under the lemon trees. There’s no doubt this is a lovely spot, but like many places that trade on star power, the food is apparently a bit hit and miss.
L’Olivo
Capri Palace Hotel & Spa. Via Capodimonte 2b - Anacapri. +39 081 978 0111. www.capripalace.com
If Michelin-star dining is what you’re after, this is the place. The two-star affair features German chef Oliver Glowig’s refined Mediterranean cuisine and over 12,000 bottles of fine international wines in a rather formal interior or a large outdoor terrace in summer.
Bar Tiberio, Gran Caffe Vuotto...Cafes in La Piazzetta
Any of the four cafes in La Piazzetta will do for the requisite people-watching session, drink in hand. We settled into Bar Tiberio in front of a very amusing Italian odd couple (see picture below), one of whom sounded like Satan on Nicorette. Opened in 1937 by Raffaele Vuotto, the Gran Caffe is one of the oldest and perhaps the most polished of the bunch.
Panta Rei
via Lo Palazzo, 1 - Capri. +39 081 837 8898. www.pantareicapri.it
Only steps but a world away from the scene at La Piazzetta, this is a terrific spot for sunset drinks and nibbles, with a breezy terrace boasting sweeping views over the Gulf of Naples. This unusual destination wears many hats throughout the day: “Pantaqua”, a wellness/spa area featuring a Turkish bath and heated swimming pool; the restaurant “Pantagusto”; and then “Pantabar”, where sunset drinks can turn into open-air clubbing with DJ’s and video projections.
Buonocore
via V. Emanuele, 35. +39 081 837 7826
Reckoned by some to be the best gelato on the island, with crispy waffle cones made fresh throughout the day (when you can smell them, you know you’re getting close). There’s a formidable pastry and cake selection too, from torta Caprese and their signature “Caprilu al limone”, a dense cookie made of honey, almonds and lemons.
Bar Embassy
Via Camerelle, 16 - Capri. +39 081 837 7066
Another excellent gelateria with a wide variety of robust flavours.
Where to Eat: Capri
THE place to swim and eat: Lido del Faro
Great spot for a long lunch
La Rondinella. An enchanting, local favorite in the heart of Anacapri
La Fontelina: the place to stop for lunch while circumnavigating the island, with a view of the Faraglioni
Just a stone's throw from Capri's see-and-be-seen La Piazzetta, it's decent food and great people watching
Meatballs and squid ink pasta at La Fontelina
The view from Bar Tiberio, a La Piazzetta favorite
Bar Tiberio regulars - classic!